Week 23 – Nightgown Pattern Alterations and Sloper Skirt

Well! This week was filled with time-consuming stuff that doesn’t look all that impressive. Also I sidetracked from my stated goals from last week, but no matter. It’s my blog and I’ll do what I want to. 🙂

Firstly, it turns out that the pattern I ordered with the lingerie Craftsy class is a size bracket smaller than I needed – the largest size on the pattern was about seven inches too small in all three measurements, so I had to do some significant grading to get it up to the right size. I haven’t really done a tone of size grading, and this pattern had more pieces than I’ve had to alter for anything before, so it took quite a bit longer than I’d anticipated.

However! Results:

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Not shown: the front piece, which also had additional width added

Not the most visually appealing image in the world, and I probably should have pressed the tissue before working with it, but I was impatient. The basic width changes are probably fine, but I’m a little worried about the cup – I knew it needed more width at the bottom, but with a quick tissue-fitting before I made the cut, it didn’t seem like the cup needed to be substantially bigger, so I didn’t do a real FBA, just the width adjustment. Hopefully that works out all right for me.

I got the fabric washed and dried, too, so I’m ready to actually get this nightgown started this week.

Meanwhile, instead of putting the finishing touches on the bra, I got annoyed at all the skirt sloper pieces hanging around and decided I really wanted to finish that up, so I made some good progress on that.

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There is actually far more cat hair on it than you can see here, because that is what happens to things that sit around my house.

I fixed the dart positioning, although my darts are still a little puckery (I’m pretty sure it’s a sewing problem and not a pattern problem). It has a nice, snug-but-comfortable fit that I’m hoping will the skirt rotation issues I’ve had with my other pencil skirt.

I’m hand-overcasting the seams because I’m a masochist I need something to do while watching TV, and that is time-consuming enough that it probably won’t be done for a few days. Then I need to hem it up, and probably wash it to get rid of all the fabric marker I used trying to fit this thing. I’ve already made the pattern adjustments, so now theoretically I have a skirt sloper pattern that I can use to help fit my other patterns, which is very exciting!

 

Goals for next week:

My trip is coming up in just over three weeks, and I’d like to get this nightgown and a button-down shirt done before I go, so I’m going to have to be really on the ball.

  • Finish overcasting and hemming the sloper skirt
  • Finishing touches on bra
  • Cut out nightgown fabric and start assembly

Week 18: Manila

Sewing

My plan for last week was to just sew the first three seams on the Manila pants, right?

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Well, I sort of finished them. You can’t really tell because the pattern is so busy, but those babies are done. 

So I actually love this pattern. In particular, the first part works up super quickly and suddenly you have a pants-shaped item!

However. I feel like the instructions sort of can’t decide if they are aimed at an absolute beginner or at a more experienced sewer.

  • There are sidebars that tell me about the right vs. wrong side of the fabric and about the notches, but don’t tell me if I need to clip or finish my seams?
  • Similarly, the waistband was smaller than the waist, which did require easing the waist into the waistband. I assume this was intentional, and it turned out fine, but if I were really a new enough sewer that I needed to know right vs. wrong side of the fabric, I would have been very concerned that I’d messed something up.
  • Trying to keep the elastic in the waistband and catch all three edges with fabric that wanted to roll back on itself was not easy. (My gut told me to hand baste the waistband closed before trying to attach it, and I ignored my gut, and had to spend 6 episodes of Yuri on Ice picking that damn seam out.)
  • The instructions don’t tell you to change the overlap on the cuff on the second leg, and I didn’t notice that the cuff overlap was reversed in the line drawing, so my cuffs aren’t mirrored nicely. On this fabric it really doesn’t matter, but I’d probably be taking it out and redoing it if I’d used a solid fabric.
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Both my overlaps are facing the same direction, when they apparently should be mirrored. 😦

Like I said, I actually really like this pattern, and I’m looking forward to making my second one. But I feel like the instructions could use some additional notes for the brand new sewer they appear to be targeting.

My first attempt also made it clear that I need to raise the center back seam about two inches, so I adjusted the pattern to do that.

 

Knitting

OH BOY.

Do you ever find that when you just want something to be done, everything goes horribly wrong, and it takes way longer than it should? That is what happened with these socks.

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I mean, I made it. Finally. But first off, because I’m doing two socks at a time, I did 3/4s of the grafting I needed to before I could check if the sock cuff was big enough to make it around my heel. It was not. I left the “finished” sock alone for awhile and took out the grafting and double-knit section on the half grafted sock, and decided I had enough yarn left (because of course I had cut the yarn at this point) to knit one more row of ribbing before doing a new bind off. Halfway through the bind off, I realized I did not in fact have enough yarn, so I went back and took out the extra row I’d just added, and started the bind-off again. I was 3/4ths of the way through that when I realized I still didn’t have enough yarn, so I had to take out the bind-off row and then another ribbing row.

Basically, I attempted to bind that sock off three times before I finally succeeded. At least on the other sock I knew how far back I needed to rip.

Now that they are done, I like them – the toe-up construction was interesting, they fit really well, and I enjoyed the two-at-a-time sock thing. I just think I need some time away from knitting for a few weeks to get my groove back.

Goals for next week:

  • Manila version 2 – just the whole thing. The first one didn’t take that long.
  • Start into the next project, depending on how quickly that goes.
  • Two bullets feels like too few, so… um… watch more Craftsy videos?