Week 21 – Skirt Sloper Test Drive

Where did my motivation go? I didn’t feel like doing anything this week, which I’m sure is at least partially due to the unseasonably warm weather, but it does suck for trying to get stuff done.

The sloper is not working out as well as it had seemed in the muslin. I was despairing last night that I’d never get the stupid skirt sloper figured out and never have an actual, fitting skirt, but today is a new day and I’m almost ready to tackle it again.

The waist-to-hip ratio is still correct, and it actually sits in place where it is supposed to, which is wonderful, but the darts are… weird. I wound up lengthening the dart I’d had to shorten by almost the same amount I’d originally shortened it, and then the longer dart by the center back seam seems to be ending in excess fabric, which, now that I put it into words like that, means it is probably too long. Then there’s this:

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I’m pretty sure this is supposed to be a smooth line, and not a grand staircase.

You can see where I offset the zipper down a bit in the expectation that I’d have to chop those steps off. I’m sure this must have been a problem on the muslin that I just overlooked. The side seams are also doing some weird things, and look like they need to be raised a little to make the waistline sit evenly.

I think I’m going to wind up with like five pencil skirts before I have the fit down right, and I don’t even really like pencil skirts, haha. That said, this one actually fits comfortably, and if I can just fix the darts, the waistband will cover up most of the weirdness at the waist.

This is material leftover from the ill-fated pants project of last year. It’s kind of a heavy, almost denim fabric, which is great for showing where all my fitting flaws are. It was actually a really good choice for this, since it doesn’t stretch nearly as much as the muslin. While I was ironing it I figured out why it was at Goodwill, though – it has some weird color variations. I doubt anyone will notice it when it’s out in public, though, and if they do, that’s their problem.

 

I successfully printed out and graded up the pattern for the shaper shorts, as intended. I had to grade up by about one and a half sizes. Thankfully, Beverly’s sizes are all evenly graded up (meaning the difference between 6 and 8 at a given point is the same as the difference between 14 and 16, etc.), so it was easy enough to add, say, 3/8ths instead of a quarter inch. It should be pretty easy to assemble, being only two pattern pieces.

And then yesterday I went to Joann to pick up thread for the shorts, not realizing it was their Memorial Day sale? So instead of the quick in-and-out trip I was planning on, I wound up staying for an hour and a half looking through the Simplicity pattern book since Simplicity patterns were 5 for $5.

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I also picked up elastic for the shorts, and then I thought I’d buy fabric for the nightgown I’ve been planning to make since I watched the lingerie Craftsy class, and found this ridiculously cheerful spring floral rayon that I just love:

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As I was falling asleep I started thinking about it and I was like “Crap, do I want to use that excellent spring fabric for a nightgown? Maybe I really want to make a dress, or a top, or something that I can wear not just for sleeping?” So now I’m having a fabric crisis about that. I got four yards (didn’t have the pattern and figured I’d aim high), so I might be able to squeeze both a top and nightgown out of it, if I’m very careful with my cutting.

Goals for next week:

I feel like I have a lot of little things that aren’t quite done, so I want to see if I can knock some of those out.

  • York 2: add the blue bias binding, and see if turning the tucks into real darts helps the shoulder issue.
  • Akita: hand overcast the bits of the binding that didn’t get caught, and add the bar tacks to the waist
  • Minor alterations to a black knit shirt to help it hang better over my hips (also maybe do something about the facing, it’s annoyingly flippy)
  • Shorten green corduroy pants
  • Skirt sloper tweaks – would like to actually have a skirt next week
  • Cut out fabric for shorts
  • Cut out fabric for bra
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