Week 2 Report: Planning + York Started

Sewing

sketches-ccc

Potential upcoming projects. I’m thinking of Cleo for the left one, maybe leaving off the trim, but I’ll have to look around for patterns if I decide to do the middle.

I did some sketching and some browsing through patterns both online and that I already had. The croquis is from the Colette Sewing Project Planner that I picked up awhile back. It’s not an exact match to my body shape, but it’s helpful to get a general idea how something will look on a differently shaped figure than you see in most fashion drawings.

A lot of the patterns I’m interested in making are not super easy, but I do have a couple of Seamwork patterns in my collection, and the whole Seamwork advertising is that they are 3 hours or less (I assume this is for someone with more sewing experience than I have, because it takes me 3 hours to cut out the pattern and fabric most of the time, hah).

(I swear I’m not being paid to promote Colette, but they are local and indie, and I’m enough of a Portland hipster that both of those things are important to me lol.)

I’m going with York, although I’m not sure whether it’s going to be flattering on me or not. I’m a little iffy on the wide neck. We’ll see! I think the project after this one will be a black corduroy skirt (attempted illustration with York, below) from a pair of corduroy pants that bit the dust in a dramatic fashion.

fabric-cc
I got this fabric at Goodwill at 3 1/2 yards for $6.99. It feels like some sort of rayon, but I haven’t done a burn test on it (and probably won’t – it went through the washer and dryer fine, and that’s all that really matters to me)

Interesting things about York that will improve my sewing:

  • It’s a bodice piece. I haven’t made a shirt in years, and I didn’t really understand fitting at the time. (I understand it better now, I just suck at it.)
  • It has bias tape! I haven’t ever made anything with bias tape! I bought bias tape makers awhile back that I have been dying to use, so I’m looking forward to binding this with its own fabric

I successfully printed out York and got it all taped together, and then came my least favorite part: measuring the pattern itself to make sure it fits.

001-2
I know you can’t see it very well, but this thing is covered with calculated measurements

 

I don’t know what is up with the last few patterns I’ve made, but the finished garment measurements on the instructions are not the same as the measurements when I measure the pattern itself. And it’s not off by like a quarter inch or something – based on my body measurements I should have made a 20, but after measuring the pattern my bust and hips are a size 16, and my waist would have been a 10?! And I was including the recommended ease (difference between the body measurements and the final garment measurements), so that wasn’t my issue.

I had this same problem with the pants I made at the end of last year, too – based on the sizing on the back I was going to have to grade the pattern up a size from the max, but I think I made three sizes smaller and it wasn’t perfect but it was much closer than it would have been if I’d followed the listed measurements. That pattern was a vintage repro, so I figured that was the problem, but now that I’m running into it again… I can’t figure out if I’m doing something wrong or if it’s just my bad luck picking patterns.

Anyway, I was going to grade the pattern between a 16 and a 10 and then I decided that that was going to do weird things to the lines if I did it on the pattern. I’m going to leave an inch seam allowance for basting it together, and then I’ll pinch out the extra if I need to.

 

Knitting

003

I made it past the heel turn like I’d wanted to. The cable did not work out like I’d thought it would, so I’m trying different things with it as I go down the top. Should have it figured out by the time I get to the second sock. Good thing I’m not a knitting perfectionist. The pattern takes forever, too, since at this point I have a cable in almost every row. I’m gonna have to seriously pick up the pace if I’m going to get this pair done by the end of the month.

I’m still not thrilled with the looseness of the fabric I’m making, even on the 000s. I’m considering going back to English-style knitting, where I always had gauge that was pretty much exactly what the yarn suggested. I haven’t knit English in years, but the loose gauge thing has been really bugging me lately.

 

Goals for next week:

  • Finish sock #1, get to the start of the heel on sock #2
  • Cut out fabric and baste shirt together
  • Get through 3 items in my mending pile
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